By Cassie Ferguson

Gazette Staff

People who've been hankering for a hamburger from the just-closed defunct Tasty grill may now head over to the School of Public Health, where former diner cook Charles Coney recently started working at Sebastian's restaurant.

Fans of the 24-hour eatery at the heart of Harvard Square are thrilled that Coney is back at the grill.

"They're lucky to have him," said Sarmonica Jones of the Harvard International Office, who, for the past six years, breakfasted on a Tasty bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich nearly every morning. "I'd go over there just to see Charlie."

Coney, renowned for his grill skills and over-the-counter banter, says he'd be delighted to see Jones and other former customers. He'll even whip up special requests not on the menu for those nostalgic for classic Tasty's tasties.

"Charlie is the short-order cook extraordinaire," wrote Car Talk co-host Tom Magliozzi on the National Public Radio show's Web site. "God didn't make two Charlies -- oh, no. There's only one Charlie. Calls everyone 'Chief,' as in, 'What'll it be, Chief?' "

Coney had worked behind the Tasty counter for nearly 23 years when the restaurant deep-fried its last dish in November. The diner closed after 81 years because the building, owned by Cambridge Savings Bank, was about to undergo major renovations.

David Davidson, assistant director for campus restaurants, said he jumped at the chance to add a local legend to the Harvard Dining Services staff.

"When we heard the Tasty was closing, we went over and dropped off an application and said we'd be happy to talk," he said. "We're excited that Coney's now officially part of the Harvard community." (University Dining Services operates Sebastian's, in the Kresge Building at the School of Public Health, and a number of other campus restaurants.)

"It's totally different from the Tasty," said Coney, who began working at Sebastian's on Feb. 2. "It's really busy -- you do a little of everything and you work with a lot of other people."

Some might consider a serving of ground red meat graced with cholesterol-packed cheddar cheese and bacon an odd offering for a school of public health.

"The optimum number of cheeseburgers is zero," commented Meir Stampfer, professor of epidemiology and nutrition at the School of Public Health. "However, you have to watch the whole diet. It's not just greasiness that counts; it's what the grease is made of and how the food is cooked."

Fortunately for health-conscious eaters, Sebastian's also serves plenty of fruit, salads, and low-fat entrees in addition to burgers and fries.